First 24+ Hours in Nepal

December 4th

17:05 – Landing in Nepal; I’ve been traveling since the evening of Dec. 2nd, but seeing the beautiful mountain ranges from the aircraft makes it all worthwhile! Oh, and I was bumped up to business class for the Doha – Kathmandu leg of my journey.

17:10 – I step off the aircraft and take a deep breath. The air feels dense, but the smell is typically South Asian. It’s hard to describe, but if you’ve traveled to these places, you know it. It’s something like a cross between burning rubber and vegetation.

17:15 – The shuttle from the aircraft to the terminal takes us 15 seconds. I could have walked. I ask for a one month tourist visa and explain that my return flight is actually on January 18th, but that I’ll be leaving for a few weeks in between. He tells me to get a $100 2 month visa instead of a $40 30 day one. The German gentleman in front of me tells me he’s overheard my conversation and recommends I get the $100 one since it’ll come out cheaper. He must have missed something: $40*2 is still $80. I took the $40 visa.

18:00 – After waiting a while for the luggage it ends up coming out. I’m surprised that several people have TVs in their checked luggage and more impressed at how long it’s taking people to pick them up off the belt. I’m also quite pleased that my stuff made it intact through all the connections (Montreal –> London –> Doha –> Kathmandu).

18:15 – The CECI-Nepal people are waiting for me at the exit. I see the sign: “Uniterra – Ian Selvarajah”. Although I’ve traveled a lot, it’s my first time landing somewhere and having someone holding up my name card. I’ve always wanted that! Ha ha

18:20 – I meet Hari, the Uniterra program director who puts a scarf and Mala (flower garland) around my neck to welcome me. He tells me despite the long travel I still look fresh. I tell him that due to all my travel last year, I was fortunate enough to have lounge access so I took a shower when I was in London Heathrow.

19:00 – Arrive at the hotel Tibet where I’m staying for a couple of days. The driving is like Sri Lanka, I might even say slightly worse. We have a few near misses, but this is how it is; I missed the times I was driving in Sri Lanka. There’s nothing like a near head-on collision to make you feel alive!

19:30 – Although I’m tired, I need to find an adapter for my laptop and other electronics. As I walk out, the front desk tells me I have a message. I find it curious that a Debi has said: “If you want to knock on my door when you are settled, feel free.”; I ask them if Debi works for CECI. They hesitate, but say “Yes.”.

19:40 – I find a “department store” and purchase an adapter for 50Rs. (< $1). I briefly meet a girl who looks western and chat for a few minutes. She tells me she's been in Nepal for about a month and that there are plenty of good restaurants around the hotel.

19:50 – Get back to the hotel and again ask if Debi works for CECI; they say yes, so I go knock on the door. Debi is the other Leave for Change volunteer that had arrived on Saturday. She tells me that she has the bad news that we’re being picked up @ 07:15 to clean up the streets for International Volunteers’ Day. No problem.

20:30 – Make sure everything is in my suitcases, shower and go to bed.

December 5th

06:00 – Wake up, shower, shave and get dressed. I was told that we have a volunteers’ cocktail at 17:00 and I won’t have time to change in between. Good news is that it’s supposed to be casual.

07:30 – The CECI jeep comes to pick us up. I meet John, Monica, Jaclyn and Salome who are all Canadian volunteers that have been in Nepal for more than 6 months. They all seem very nice and fun despite how early it is.

08:00 – Volunteers from several countries are all gathered around- it’s quite a sight to see! A few people make the comment that I’m clearly over-dressed to be picking up garbage. I agree. Everyone is also surprised that I arrived the night before and am cleaning garbage on my very first day a few hours later!

10:00 – Still walking around cleaning up the streets. I notice there are several people much more skilled than we are- the actual street cleaners were cleaning with us. Monica is quite popular with the crowd because she can speak some Nepali; she explains that “Ke” means “what” and “Ho” is “is”. “Topeko nam ke ho?” (Your name, what is?). I learn to say: “Mero nam Ian ho” (My name Ian is) and ask a few people around what their names are. The language sounds a lot like Hindi.

10:45 – Some of the street kids perform a play for all the volunteers. It was a little disturbing as these young kids were portraying what life is like in the city. Although I couldn’t understand anything, I got rough idea. The temperature is about 20 degrees celsius. Not bad for a winter day!

11:30 – I haven’t eaten anything since lunch on the plane the day before, so John, Salome, Debi and I find a place to eat. I try Momos for the first time; they’re like dumplings and quite delicious!

13:00 – We head back to the CECI office for my official orientation. It’s actually colder in the office than outside! Geetika, the program director introduces me to the people in the office and explains some of the Nepali etiquette. She figures I should be OK given my Sri Lankan background. I explain that my only questions revolve around my specific mandate as it’s still not clear what exactly I have to do here. She assures me that we will sort out the details of the mandate during our meeting with the partner organization on Monday morning. She also tells me how great the past Leave for Change volunteers have been, so I have some big shoes to fill!

15:00 – Hari gives me a brief historial overview of CECI-Nepal and the Uniterra program and the work they’re doing is actually quite amazing. The biggest difference between this project and the work I did in Sri Lanka is that these are more sustainable projects in the sense that we’re transferring knowledge and skills rather than just building things and leaving.

16:00 – I meet Moose (nickname, of course), Craig, Courtney and Noureen- more volunteers that have showed up for the cocktail. Everyone I meet is really great. All these people are working on really neat projects and most of them have left their existing jobs to do something in another country. I’m always impressed meeting and talking to people like this.

17:00 – We get to the cocktail and I meet several more volunteers Paul, Anne Marie, Kelly, Charles, Cathy (I’m having trouble remembering more names…). One of the girls who lives close to the hotel was leaving at 18:30, so I figured I’d leave with her.

20:00 – Several glasses of wine later and I’m still at the party. I tell them I’m from Montreal, so despite the mild jetlag, I’ll come out to party…

~20:30 – We leave to a place called G’s Terrace and have a great time. I’m told the live band is one of the best in Nepal and they’re quite good! I’m drinking water by this point because I have to be up early the next day.

23:00 – Bars close at 23:00, so I’m getting ready to leave when the volunteers tell me there’s another place they always go to.

23:10 – Next bar: Tom and Jerry’s (those are actually the owners’ names). Some are surprised I’m still standing, others are telling me their first nights were like this too, so I’m glad I stuck around! I am, afterall representing Montreal, right?

December 6th

00:15 – A cab asks for 400Rs. to take us all home. Craig has been here for a while, so he knows better and gets it down to 250. 5 of us pile into a tiny Suzuki Swift cab and head home.

00:30 – Get to the hotel, lights are all off and the front is locked up. I’m concerned for about 3 seconds and knock on the door. Someone eventually opens it up.

00:55 – Finally got the internet in my room working a little, so I send an email update to the family, update my Facebook status (a must!) and get to bed.

06:30 – Wake up, shower, download the videos to the PC (I’ll post these asap)

Now – I’m getting picked up in 45 minutes for a city tour. I’ve heard it’s really great, so I’m looking forward to that. Sorry for the long post, the next ones should be shorter and have more pics!!

Cheers!